Coxquihui

Coxquihui is the next town north of Zozocolco, a Totonac community in the hills of the Sierra de Papantla close to the Puebla border. Its name comes from Totonac and is usually explained as "place of chamolote", a native reed. Most families farm corn, beans and chile, along with coffee, vanilla and medicinal plants grown around their homes.

The sierra's isolation has helped keep Totonac language and customs alive here, and you may still see older men in white cotton shirts and trousers and women in embroidered blouses, long skirts called naguas and kerchiefs crossed over the chest. Local crafts include carved wooden masks for the traditional dances, decorated wax candles for church festivals, embroidered clothing and items woven from palm.

The best time to visit is during the fiesta for San Mateo, the patron saint, in September, when dances are performed over several days and the voladores fly from their tall pole. Holy Week is also observed with a passion play and the burning of Judas figures. The rest of the year it is a quiet town and an easy short trip from Zozocolco.