Archaeological site 17 km southwest of Angangueo
A hilltop ceremonial center with one of the largest pyramids in Michoacán, built where it could watch the road from central Mexico.
San Felipe los Alzati, also called Zirahuato, is an archaeological site at the foot of Cerro Zirahuato, north of Zitácuaro and southwest of Angangueo. Its main pyramid is one of the largest in Michoacán. The site is linked to the Matlatzinca people, and it shows influences from Teotihuacan, the Otomí, the Purépecha and the Aztecs. It was occupied over a long span, with its main phases between about 750 and 1500 AD.
Its position explains its importance. The site looks over the valley on the route between the Valley of Toluca and Michoacán, on the old frontier between the Aztec and Purépecha empires, and it probably served both as a ceremonial center and as a lookout guarding that route and its trade.
Only the main group has been excavated: two stepped pyramids and a plaza, built into the natural slope with retaining walls of volcanic stone and laid out along the cardinal directions. Look for the petroglyphs, especially the spirals linked to the movement of the sun. The site is run by INAH and sees few visitors, so you often have it almost to yourself.
What to see and do
Climb to the plaza between the two pyramids for the view over the Zirahuato valley.
Look for the spiral petroglyphs on the stones of the main pyramid.
Stop at the small introductory room at the entrance to understand the site.
Combine the visit with El Rosario, which is on the same side of the mountains.
Getting there
From Angangueo it is about 40 minutes by car: drive down through Ocampo toward San Felipe los Alzati, then follow the signs to the turnoff for Zirahuato; the site is about a kilometer beyond. It is open daily and charges a small INAH entrance fee.
17 km southwest of Angangueo
Directions from Angangueo on Google Maps
Distances are in a straight line; the road is usually longer.
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Weather cool
San Felipe los Alzati shares the climate of Angangueo, 17 km away. The best months to visit are Feb, Mar, Apr, Nov.
Make Angangueo your base
San Felipe los Alzati is an easy trip from Angangueo, a Pueblo Mágico with places to stay, food, and more to see.
More around Angangueo
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Santuario El Rosario
· Nature reserve · 4 km away
The largest and busiest monarch butterfly sanctuary, a steep forest climb above Angangueo, open roughly November to March. -
Santuario Sierra Chincua
· Nature reserve · 6 km away
A quieter monarch sanctuary north of Angangueo, with a gentler trail, horses, and a visitor center with food stalls and a zip line. -
Ocampo
· Town · 7 km away
The small municipal seat below Angangueo, the gateway town for the road up to the El Rosario sanctuary.
Location from OpenStreetMap. Written by Puebloteca.