Montepío

Montepío is a small settlement on the Gulf of Mexico in the municipality of San Andrés Tuxtla, in the Los Tuxtlas region of southern Veracruz. It sits where two short rivers coming down from the San Martín Tuxtla volcano reach the sea, and that meeting of fresh and salt water defines the place: the water is calm and shallow where the currents join, dark volcanic rocks dot the shore and green mountains rise behind the beach.

It works mostly as a holiday spot for Mexican families, quiet on weekdays and much busier on weekends and long holidays. A handful of palapas grill fish and seafood and sell fresh coconut water. Do not expect town services: there is no supermarket, ATM or internet, so bring cash from Catemaco or San Andrés.

The road in from Catemaco passes the Los Tuxtlas Tropical Biology Station, where the surrounding rainforest can be explored on foot. Mexico's federal tourism ministry puts Montepío on its Los Tuxtlas route together with the mangrove-lined Sontecomapan lagoon, the Barra de Sontecomapan and the Río Oro canyon, which makes for a full day along the north coast of the volcanic range.