Jaral del Progreso

Jaral del Progreso began as a colonial farm-and-cattle settlement in the Bajío and changed its name more than once: Jaral de la Cruz first, then Jaral del Valle, back when it answered to Camémbaro, today's Valle de Santiago. The town was laid out in 1831, became a free municipality in 1863 and was raised to city status in 1910 under the name it carries today. About 21,000 people live here at 1,716 metres, among fields of maize, sorghum and broccoli watered from the Lerma River.

The building that anchors the centre is the parish of San Nicolás de Tolentino on Calle Manuel Doblado. A rural chapel was authorised in 1819 and opened in 1821; the present church went up between 1850 and 1884. The outside is plain, late neoclassical with an eclectic streak, with medallions honouring its benefactors, the Patiño family. Inside, look up at the vault, where the titular saint appears. In front of the main garden stand busts of Juárez and Hidalgo, and beside the churchyard an eagle's head marks the Independence Route.

On the horizon sits Cerro Culiacán, a ceremonial site of Nahua origin. Friars planted crosses where shrines once stood, which is why the whole district venerates the Holy Cross on 3 May. On 21 March many people climb up to greet the equinox, and the hill is used for mountain biking, walking and rappelling.

At the table this is sweet country: rollo de guayaba (guava pulp with dulce de leche and grated coconut), baked fruit pastries, quince and guava pastes, buñuelos and cajeta. The regional drink is cebadina, a barley cooler with a pinch of baking soda. A local red mole is kept for feast days. Craft work centres on reed and cane baskets and on wicker. The patron saint is celebrated on 10 September with masses, a procession and brass bands.