Huitzilac

From Mexico City, take the Mexico-Cuernavaca toll road or the free road (95 and 95D) to Tres Marías, around km 47. There you turn off toward Huitzilac, a few kilometres away, on the road that continues to Toluca and the Lagunas de Zempoala. By car it is about 1.5 to 2 hours from the capital, depending on traffic; the toll road charges a fee.

By bus, the Central Sur (Tasqueña) terminal has Pullman de Morelos buses to Cuernavaca: ask to be dropped at Tres Marías and take another bus or colectivo from there to Huitzilac; from town you can continue by taxi or a Toluca-bound vehicle to the lakes. We found no direct service from Cuernavaca and no published schedule, so ask at the Cuernavaca terminal and find out the last run back, since there is little after dark. Cuernavaca is about 12 km away in a straight line, but the road is much longer: count on about 40 min, approx. Tepoztlán, the nearest pueblo on our list, is about 18 km as the crow flies, but there is no direct link and you go back down through Cuernavaca.

Step into the church of San Juan Bautista, finished in 1690.
Walk the town centre and feel the forest fog at over 2,500 m.
Eat mutton barbacoa, quesadillas or wild-mushroom soup at the stalls in town.
Stop at Tres Marías, a few kilometres off, where motorcyclists gather on weekends.
Go on 13 to 15 km to the Lagunas de Zempoala to hike, cycle or hire a horse.
Find the Morelos monument at km 46.9 of the Mexico-Cuernavaca highway.