Los Islotes

Los Islotes, also called Isla Lobos or La Lobera, is a small, craggy outcrop about a quarter of a mile long at the northern end of the Espíritu Santo island group, just beyond Isla Partida, in the La Paz municipality of Baja California Sur. It is part of the Archipiélago de Espíritu Santo National Park. What makes it a destination is the colony of California sea lions, Zalophus californianus, that hauls out and breeds on its rocks; sources describe it as several hundred animals, and one gives about 300.

The usual way to see it is a boat tour from La Paz that combines Los Islotes with a snorkeling stop and a beach lunch elsewhere on Espíritu Santo. From the Marina de La Paz the run to the northern tip takes about one to one and a half hours depending on sea conditions, and independent pangas also leave from Playa El Tecolote. The boats anchor in the lee of the rocks, and on the days when swimming is permitted you slip into the water with a mask and fins and the sea lions come to look at you, often the young ones, which are curious and playful and will circle, dive and blow bubbles close to your face. The adult males guard the rocks and can be aggressive, so operators brief everyone on staying calm and keeping a respectful distance: do not touch the animals and do not get too close to the rocks.

The seasons matter. Boat visits are allowed year-round, but swimming, snorkeling and diving at the colony are only allowed from September through May; in the summer breeding season, roughly June to August, in-water interaction is closed to protect the pregnant females and newborn pups. If you come in the closed months, some operators offer another sea lion rookery, San Rafaelito, as a substitute. The pups are most active in fall and winter, which many people consider the best time for the swim.

There is no landing and nothing on shore: this is a wildlife stop, not a beach. The water can be choppy and cold in winter, so wear a wetsuit if you are prone to chill, and ask the operator about the current park rules and fees.