Town 16 km southeast of Metepec
The barbacoa capital of central Mexico, with a barbacoa fair at Carnival and a 16th-century Augustinian parish church.
If you have eaten lamb barbacoa at a weekend stand in Mexico City or Toluca, there is a good chance it came from Capulhuac. Making and selling barbacoa is the town's main business: lamb is slow-cooked overnight in underground pits lined with maguey leaves, and on Saturdays and Sundays local families carry it to markets across the Valley of Mexico. The trade took off in the mid-20th century and has made Capulhuac famous as the barbacoa capital of the region.
The best time to visit is Carnival, in February, when the town holds its barbacoa fair with a food corridor serving barbacoa and consommé, traditional dances, music and stands of local crafts. At any time of year, weekend mornings are when the barbacoa is freshest.
Capulhuac also has older history. The Augustinian friars began the parish church of San Bartolomé Apóstol around 1540 to 1550, though it was only finished centuries later; it is listed as a historic monument. The town has staged a Passion play during Holy Week since the 19th century, and its craftspeople make tinware, embroidery and traditional sweets such as amaranth alegrías.
What to see and do
Eat barbacoa and consommé on a weekend morning, when it comes fresh out of the pit.
Visit during Carnival in February for the barbacoa fair.
See the parish church of San Bartolomé Apóstol, begun by Augustinian friars in the 16th century.
Buy amaranth alegrías and other traditional sweets.
Getting there
Capulhuac is about 20 km east of Metepec, roughly 25 minutes by car, close to Santiago Tianguistenco; the two make an easy combined trip. Buses run from Toluca and from Mexico City's Observatorio terminal toward Capulhuac and Tianguistenco. Fair dates change each year, so check before you go.
16 km southeast of Metepec
Directions from Metepec on Google Maps
Distances are in a straight line; the road is usually longer.
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Weather cool
Capulhuac shares the climate of Metepec, 16 km away. The best months to visit are Jan, Feb, Mar, Dec.
Make Metepec your base
Capulhuac is an easy trip from Metepec, a Pueblo Mágico with places to stay, food, and more to see.
More around Metepec
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Location from OpenStreetMap. Written by Puebloteca.