San Martín Itunyoso

Itunyoso sits at 2,616 metres in the high part of the Tlaxiaco district and is the seat of a small municipality of just 82.93 km². Its people call it Chumanh, which simply means "town" in Triqui, while the Mixtec-based name is read as "hill of the plain" (itun, hill; yoso, plain). The local language is Itunyoso Triqui, one of two Triqui varieties spoken in the municipality (the other is Chicahuaxtla), and in the 2020 census 96% of the town's 1,404 residents identified as indigenous and 80% spoke an indigenous language.

Numbers here have swung a lot: 812 people in 1900, 1,195 in 1980, only 630 in 1990 and back to 1,404 in 2020. The municipality is governed by usos y costumbres and has six localities; after the seat the largest are San José Xochixtlán (824 people) and La Concepción (284). Several hamlets lie right beside the town: La Reforma Itunyoso a kilometre away, Yosonduu two, Santa María Teposlantongo under three, and Santa María Yucunicoco, with 1,738 residents, about four kilometres north.

The plaza is wide, with a multi-storey clock tower and a blue-fronted town hall. Hills above 2,600 m rise around the village, among them Xaantú and Tres Cruces (2,760 m). Expect basic services: in 2020 nearly every home had electricity, but only four in ten had a mobile phone and six in a hundred had internet, so signal can be patchy. No lodging is registered in the village; the nearest hotels are about 14 km to the northeast.