Río Filobobos

The Filobobos river runs through a warm, deep valley just across the state line in Veracruz, east of Teziutlán, where the sierra drops toward the Gulf plain. The town of Tlapacoyan, surrounded by citrus orchards and coffee, is the base for exploring it and has become one of Mexico's best-known rafting centers.

The river and its surroundings are a protected natural area of about 10,000 hectares, with tropical forest, canyons, side waterfalls and fields of sugar cane and oranges. Rafting operators run several routes, with names such as El Encanto, Las Pirámides and Alto Filo, covering stretches of up to about 25 kilometers. Much of the action is around El Encanto, a few kilometers from Tlapacoyan, where a waterfall pours into the river; the lower routes are calmer and suit beginners.

The river also passes two archaeological sites, El Cuajilote and Vega de la Peña, remains of towns that controlled trade between the coast and the highlands. They are reached on foot or by raft rather than by road, which makes them some of the most atmospheric ruins in the region. Many operators have riverside camps with cabins, so a two-day trip is easy to arrange.